Tongue is popular in many cultures, and its popularity in America is thanks, no doubt, to its similarity to our much-loved cold cuts. No matter what the sourceΓÇöbeef, calf, lamb, or porkΓÇöthe smaller tongues are usually better. The best flavored, whether fresh, smoked, or pickled, is beef tongue. For tenderest texture, it should be under 3 pounds. Fresh tongue should be moist and pink or pale red in color. Before cooking, scrub the tongue well using a kitchen brush. If it is smoked or pickled, blanch it first by simmering it in water to cover for about 10 minutes to remove the excess salt and smoked or pickled taste. Drain and immerse the tongue in cold water. After draining, cook as for Boiled Fresh, Smoked, or Pickled Beef Tongue. Cook tongue until tender when pierced with a two-pronged fork and the bone at the root pulls away from the meat.
If the tongue is to be served hot, drain it, plunge it into cold water for a moment so that you can handle it, then skin it. With a paring knife, make a small cut at the tip and peel away the skin. If it comes off easily at this point, continue to skin it completely, but if not, let it cool longer. Trim the tongue by removing the small bones and gristle. Return it very briefly to the hot cooking water to reheat before serving. If the tongue is to be served cold, let it cool enough to handle. Drain the tongue, skin it as described above, then cut it away from the bones. Trim the small bones and gristle, then return it to the pot to cool completely in the cooking liquid.
To carve tongue, place it on its side and, starting at the tip, cut large diagonal slices. Allow 4 to 6 ounces per main-course serving.
